Galle, Sri Lanka: Gorgeous even in the rain!
Bad weather in Galle, Sri Lanka? No problem.
Travelling in Sri Lanka in late September is a crap shoot in terms of weather. Guidebooks say that by the end of the month monsoon rains should taper off, but in this wacky world of climate change who really knows? Always the pessimist, I packed flip flops and quick-dry clothing just in case and pictured Sri Lankan nights heavy with rain and the smell of wet earth.
Well, for the first half of our 8-day stay we tempted fate and won, managing to escape the rain all but one soggy afternoon in Dambulla.
But then we hit Galle, and our luck started to wane. On approach the skies were taupe, the atmosphere dewy, and the chances of rain high. By the time we checked into our hotel, freshened up, and were ready to hit the streets again, misfortune: rain had started to pour. Rats.
No matter, though. Because Sri Lanka’s 4th largest city is so darn lovely that not even precipitation can dim its light.
The views
The vistas in Galle are beautiful — rain or shine. The city’s situation on the southwestern tip of the island means that it benefits from panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. Seriously, a walk along the coastline is an attraction all by itself, and while sunshine would have been nice, the uncooperative weather made for intense skies that were nothing short of interesting.
The architecture
Galle also feels different from the rest of the country, and its architecture has a lot to do with it. Occupied first in the 16th century by the Portuguese, then by the Dutch a century later, the style of the buildings screams European and is a reminder of the city’s colonial past. It felt strange, this touch of Europe so far away in tropical Asia, but ultimately I loved the interaction between cultures — it was a nice little mash-up and beautiful to photograph. Galle is also the site of a World Heritage-listed fort and a stroll among its crumbling remparts is not to be missed either.
The surrounding beaches
The best thing about rainy days is that tourist hotspots are often left abandoned. This was the case with the beach in Unawatuna, a suburb of Galle located 3 miles away from the city center. Despite being a major tourist attraction, the unruly and unpredictable weather meant that the beach was practically empty when we got there. Score!
Where we stayed: The Fort Printers
Alas, exploring out in the rain isn’t the most pleasant thing to do on vacation, so we took refuge from the heaviest downpours at The Fort Printers, the classy boutique hotel that hosted us for a two-night stay. Located in Galle’s center, it was steps away from all the action (read: cute-as-a-button shops I wanted to spend all my money in) and provided a warm (dry!) haven in which we could relax and plan the successive segments of our trip. What I liked most about this property was its elegance and evolving history: this 18th century mansion was a private residence, then a printing facility, before being restored and remolded into its current incarnation. This small hotel is what I like to call “antique chic”: the rooms have been completely refurbished whilst maintaining their historic charm (check out that 4-poster bed!). As a lady who enjoys the finer things in life, I definitely dug the old world opulence, and with this being our second honeymoon, it was a more than suitable place to lay our heads.
Other notes and Galle tips:
+ Hang out at the harbour. Watching 10 men pull in a fishing net or the dealings at the de facto fish market is a sight to behold.
+Have a Ceylon tea at the Amangalla. This fancy schmancy hotel is a beacon of Dutch colonial architecture. Lunch or dinner is expensive so if nothing else have a tea here so you can take in the ambiance.
+Have dinner at Deco on 44. Food isn’t cheap at this hotel’s restaurant, but it is so tasty and so worth it. Portions are huge, too!
